Leaving Accra, Flying North: From Ghana’s Coast to the Savannah

Leaving Accra always feels like leaving one version of Ghana behind.

The city has its own rhythm: busy roads, roadside vendors, crowded neighborhoods, and the constant movement of people going somewhere. Situated along the Gulf of Guinea, Accra is shaped by the coast, commerce, and the energy of a rapidly growing capital.

I left the city behind and boarded a flight to Tamale, the capital of Ghana’s Northern Region. The flight was short, but the change in atmosphere felt much greater than the distance suggested. From above, Ghana seemed to transform beneath me, shifting from the densely populated coastal south to open savannah, scattered trees, farms, and wide horizons.

Accra from the plane

Flying into Tamale

After landing in Tamale, I continued by road for another two hours or so to Nalerigu. By then, I was beginning to appreciate just how different this part of Ghana could feel.

After landing in Tamale

From Coastal Green to Open Savannah

One of the first things you notice when traveling north is the landscape.

Much of southern Ghana is lush and green, with tropical vegetation, forests, and farms growing everything from cocoa and cassava to plantain and cocoyam. 

All the green in the picture are dense forests in the south

Walking to some waterfalls in the south of Ghana

Northern Ghana has a different kind of beauty. Northern Ghana feels more open.

Here, the landscape opens up into wide stretches of savannah, dotted with shea, baobab, neem, and other trees. The roads stretch through open countryside, red earth contrasts with the vegetation, and individual trees stand against a vast sky. There is a sense of space here, as though the horizon is always just a little farther away.

Northern savannah

The climate is generally drier, with a shorter rainy season and intense heat during parts of the year.  During the rainy season, the landscape bursts into green. In the dry season, everything takes on a golden, dusty appearance. Both have their own charm.

A Different Cultural Experience

Perhaps the biggest difference between north and south isn't something you can photograph.

It is the culture.

Ghana is home to many ethnic groups, languages, and religious communities. Akan, Ga, Ewe, and other cultures have shaped life across the south, while northern Ghana is home to communities including the Dagomba, Gonja, and Mamprusi, each with its own rich history and traditions.

Nalerigu holds particular historical significance as the seat of the Nayiri, the paramount chief of the Mamprugu Kingdom. Its traditional institutions offer a glimpse into a cultural heritage that remains an important part of life in the region.

My visit with the Nayiri in 2013

The religious landscape also feels different. Northern Ghana has a large Muslim population, and Islamic traditions are much more visible in everyday life.

Local Mosque 

That difference isn't simply about religion. It influences the sounds of the city, the appearance of neighborhoods, celebrations, food and the rhythm of daily life.

Food Changes Too

You can also taste the difference between north and south.

In southern Ghana, dishes such as fufu, banku, kenkey, plantain and cassava are familiar staples, often served with rich soups and stews.

In the north, millet and sorghum become much more prominent. Dishes such as tuo zaafi, often served with soups such as ayoyo, are important parts of northern cuisine. Shea and other locally sourced ingredients also feature prominently.

Tuo zaafi (TZ) with ayoyo and some kind of meat

Kenkey with grilled Tilapia 

Food is one of the easiest ways to understand regional differences because it tells the story of the environment.  The crops that grow well, the animals that are raised, the climate and centuries of tradition all end up on the plate.

What is universal is the Ghana has the best Jollof rice in West Africa!

The North Feels More Connected to the Land

Another thing that strikes you is how visible agriculture is.  The Northern Region has a strong agricultural economy, with a large share of its working population involved in farming.  Even people whose main occupations are outside agriculture maintain family farms or help with farming activities. The connection between households and the land remains important.

Passed these goats on my way to church, they were standing in a little sliver of shade.

Cows on the main road driving to Nalerigu

Around Nalerigu, the relationship between people and the land feels very apparent. Smaller villages, farms and open savannah stretch beyond the city, and the seasonal changes are much more dramatic than they are along the coast.

The rainy season can transform the landscape, bringing an explosion of green. The dry season brings another Ghana entirely—hotter, dustier and more golden.

Landing in Tamale during the dry season

These changes give the north a distinctive rhythm, one closely tied to the weather and the agricultural calendar. They also offer a reminder that Ghana's identity extends far beyond its coastline and largest cities.

My friend Asubonteng and I on the road to the hospital last year during the dry season

On my walk home from the hospital today.  I have typically come on my trips to Ghana during the dry season.  I honestly had forgotten how green the campus can be after the rains.

And you might ask: Which Ghana do I prefer?

Hands down, I prefer the north.

This answer often surprises Ghanaians I meet in the United States. Their response is usually something along the lines of, “The north? It’s too hot!”

And yes, it is hot. Sometimes very hot.

But for me, you simply cannot beat the landscape of the north. There is something beautiful about the wide-open savannah, the seemingly endless horizon, and the contrast of the deep red soil against whatever green the season has brought. Above it all is an enormous sky that at night has more stars than you can imagine.  

But it isn't just the landscape.

It is the pace of life. 

Life feels a little less hurried. There is more opportunity to notice the small things—the people sitting outside their shops, the sounds of the town, the animals wandering down the road; things that might seem insignificant at first become part of the experience.

Accra has its own appeal, of course. I enjoy the restaurant, its energy, and the variety that comes with life in a major city. But the north offers me something different. It gives me room to breathe, to observe, and to appreciate the simple beauty of my surroundings.

Maybe it is the red earth. Maybe it is the endless horizon. Maybe it is the heat everyone else complains about. Or perhaps it is simply that this was once home for a bit and thus will always hold a special place in my heart.