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At the top is rice balls in groundnut soup, the
bottom is TZ in okra soup |
Ghanaian cuisine is mostly organized around a starchy staple
food such as rice, cassava, yam, or maize.
Depending on where you are located in the country the starch will be prepared
in different ways, making a variety of different dishes, such as fufu, kenkey,
banku, rice balls, TZ. Here in the
Northern Region, where I live, they primarily eat TZ (pronounced T-zert) and rice balls. These starch variations will all be served with
some kind of soup, which is made from fish or some kind of other meat (goat,
beef, chicken, guinea fowl, or pork).
Here in the Northern region groundnut soup (basically a peanuts soup) and okra soup is
most common. They will place the rice
balls or TZ in one of those two soups and then give you a little side of
beef.
I actually like most of the food here in Ghana with the
exception of TZ. TZ actually does not
really have a taste. It is the texture
that gets me. It is extremely slimy and
makes me feel like I am eating boogers.
Here in Nalerigu we go to the local “chop bar,” which is called Free
Bar, to have local cuisine. My favorite
is rice balls and groundnut stew.
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Sharing a meal of fufu in okra soupwith Asubonteng (right)
and his twin, Seth. They are from Kumasi (south of the
country) where fufu is primarily eaten. Fufu is basically a
gooey ball of pounded cassava root or yam.
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When you sit down to eat the first thing you do is wash your
right hand. The left hand is considered
dirty and should never be used. In fact,
they will not even use the left hand to take something from someone, always the
right. You don’t even use your left hand
to wash your right like we do, that is just contaminating your right hand
again. (A child was in my office one day
and I gave her a pencil after her visit and she took it with her left
hand. Her mother gave her a love pat on
the back of her left hand and made the child give me the pencil back. Then we tried again, this time the child received
the pencil in her right hand and all was well.)
After you wash your right hand it is time to eat. You scope part of the TZ or rice ball into
your hand, roll it around into a ball, and dip it into the soup. That is the worst part. The soup is so hot and I always go away with
burnt fingers. I think the Ghanaians are
used to the heat because it does not seem to faze them. The challenge then is to get this mushy soupy
mess into your mouth without dripping soup everywhere. I always end up with soup running down my arm
and making a huge mess. My friend,
Asubonteng, has told me it is because I was never taught the proper why to eat
with my hands. He said he remembers when
he was a child his mother teaching him and correcting him when he was eating
wrong, just like we would correct our kids if they are using a fork
incorrectly. He has given me a few
pointers and I am getting a bit better! The
trickiest part is finishing the soup with your fingers. I can’t do it at all, but Ghanaians, cup
their first three fingers, scoop up the soup and then kinda wip the soup into
their mouths, turning their hands upside down as they do it. I am always amazed that they do not drip or
fling soup everywhere. I choose to
finish my soup cereal style, drinking the rest of the bowel.
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| Eating fufu with Asubonteng. I find fufu is very heavy on my stomach and I can not eat much before I am full. You can notice that Asubonteng has already finished his portion! All of the starch foods they eat could be compared in a way to how we eat mashed potatoes. I had a funny conversation with Asubonteng once about the differences. He has had mashed potatoes when he shared Thanksgiving dinner with us and he can not believe that we eat it. He hated the texture and said it had no taste. I think fufu and TZ are the most tasteless things in the world and how he wants to eat fufu every day is beyond me. |

Eating TZ, with my neighbor T Welch at Free Bar in Nalerigu. TZ is made most commonly from pounded maize.
This is one of my favorite meals served by the cooks at the BMC. It is fried rice, Ghanaian style. It has chicken, green peppers, and onions added.
Behind rice balls and groundnut soup, Jollof rice is my second favorite dish. It is a spicy dish comprised of rice cooked in tomato sauce. It occasionally has pasta noodles and meet mixed into the rice. It is served with meat, fish, or chicken. Here I had it with cabbage salad (lettuce is rare in Ghana so we cabbage salads instead) and kabobs.
Red red is my third favorite dish here in Ghana. It is a spicy bean stew made with black eye peas and is usually served with fried plantain, cassava root, or rice. It gets its name from the palm oil that tints the stew an orange color. It is greasy goodness.
Eating fried plantain with groundnuts on the go in Kumasi.
Banku can be seen in the top right hand corner of this picture. It is made from fermented maize meal and is served with a tomato based relish that you dip the banku into (below the fish on the plate). Banku is surprisingly sweet tasting. It is mostly found served in the south of Ghana. This banku was served with the best tilapia I have ever had. Tilapia is also very common in the south of the country.